for a you tube video on how we did the band at the top of the chimney
|Picture shows bottom of wall with a weep screed
drainage, overlapped with 2 layers of tar paper and
self furring metal lath.
|Flashing over window trim is angled down
and the back side flange is overlapped with tar paper.
|A straight board is used as a corner strip and
is rodded off.
|A 3/4" furring strip is used as a ground at the
Brown coat is applied and rodded off. The ground
serves as a nailer for the coping (the flashing at the top
of a parapet wall).
Without this nailer,the coping would have to be nailed
through the stucco, leaving a dented up mess.
strip is removed, leaving
a straight solid corner.
||Chimney cap is finished first.
We covered up the
cheap looking metal cap. The band at the edges form a drip edge,
extending the life of the chimney. The top is rounded for good water
run-off, and as in all our chimneys, coins are embedded in the top for
a time capsule.
|Finish coat is REAL white
Portland and REAL white sand.
||Windows uncovered, scaffold
down. This is important:
A counter flashing was put on at the roof line FIRST.
The tar paper and stucco overlaps the counter flashing,
and later the metal roof is put on. You may have
how we do this before. The roof WILL LEAK if this
|Floating finish coat with a
||A view of the finish shows our
mixture of medium and
coarse sand blasting sand.
Here is a block wall furred with Z-furring 16"
O.C. with 1-1/2" foam insulation. I have been wanting
to do this for years, but finally have a job to do it on.
More about this on the next update.